Wind Generated Ocean Waves

Chapter headings and selected papers: Introduction. Wave Theory. Introduction. Small amplitude or linear theory. Wave transformation. Limitations of linear wave theory. Stochastic Properties of Ocean Waves. Introduction. Probability distribution of wave heights. Global distribution of wave properties. Limitations of global statistics. Physical Mechanisms of Wave Evolution. Introduction. Radiative transfer equation. Atmospheric input, Sin. Nonlinear quadruplet interactions, Snl. White-cap dissipation, Sds. The spectral balance. Fetch and Duration Limited Growth. Introduction. Similarity theory and dimensionless scaling. Growth curves for energy and peak frequency. One-dimensional spectrum. Directional spreading. Non-Stationary Wind Fields. Introduction. The interaction of swell and wind sea. Rapid change in wind speed. Rapid change in wind direction. Hurricane wind and wave fields. Finite Depth Effects. Introduction. Physical processes. Finite depth growth curves. Finite depth one-dimensional spectra. Finite depth directional spreading. Numerical Modelling of Waves. Introduction. Phase resolving models. Phase averaging models. Source term representation. Computational aspects. The WAM model. Data assimilation. Ocean Wave Measurement. Introduction. In situ methods. Data analysis. Remote sensing techniques.